Thursday, October 26, 2006

The Condors of the Colca Canyon

We took a four hour bus journey to Chivay, which is on the outskirts of the Colca Canyon. The journey was fine, except for the last 40 minutes which was on an un-tarmac'd road and was very bumpy! We headed up to the highest point so far - the Pata Pampa volcano which is 4910 metres. We felt very light headed here and it was hard to breathe! We saw some Vicuñas (part of the camel family) and a very friendly Alpaca (which would eat anything it could!)

To help with altitude sickness, we were told that the leaves of the Coca Tree are good. They have made it into tea and to sweets but we had it en natural on the bus - chewing the leaves. It made our mouths go numb and turned into goo! It is also the plant that they make cocaine from!!!

We had lunch in Chivay. Here the people dress in their native dress - the women looked so colourful! We looked around their market which sold handmade garments that are ridiculously cheap!

We then headed to our hotel in nearby Coporaque. After a brief rest, we did an hour hike up the mountains. Here we stopped at an ancient buriel site and admired the views! The land has been landscaped to form large steps - some of these pre-date the Inca Empire.

We headed back and went to the local hot thermal baths which were at 40˚c!! We lounged about and were brought drinks by the waiters! We didn't want to leave!

The next day we were up at 5am as we were off to the Colca Canyon to see the Condors!! They use the early morning hot air currents to soar (to conserve energy). We stopped a few times en route to view the Colca Valley & Canyon (we were 1200 metres above the Canyon floor). We eventually saw about 5 condors (which is pretty good this time of year as it is mating season). One of them was sitting on a rock near us for ages before decided to fly around and allow us to get some great shots!

We arrived back in Arequipa mid afternoon so Kate, Jimmy & I went to the Juanita Museum. Juanita was a 12 year old girl that was sacrificed by the Incas to the gods on the Ampato volcano. They used to walk from Cuzco to the top of the volcano (at 19000 feet). It was a 160 mile walk and Juanita had been prepared from the age of 3 to be a sacrifice. They performed a ceremony at the top of the volcano before hitting her over her head to kill her and then buried her on the volcano.

Her body was fully preserved (due to the fact that the top of the volcano is covered with snow). In 1995, when the nearby volcano of Sabancaya erupted, the snow melted. Part of the volcano collapsed and Juanita's remains were discovered. They have her body in the museum - you can even see her finger nails in clear detail! It was a little strange looking at a 500 year old body in near perfect condition!

We had a BBQ in the hotel for dinner, which was really good (despite the beef so raw that it was still running around my plate!!) We're flying to Cuzco tomorrow morning so its an early start!!

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